Lisette Passport Dress

I have so many things to catch up on with you guys that it’s really hard to decide where to start. But I am eager to show you the last of my Summer Wardrobe Sewing, so let’s do the Lisette Passport Dress, okay? Great!

Lisette Passport Dress

I had another big win with this pattern, as far as I’m concerned. I love how this dress fits in the end and I think it would be great in all kinds of fabrics — I used the second piece of linen that I bought in Hanoi a couple years ago. But getting this to fit did take me three muslins, if I remember correctly.

But now, any time I want a quick new dress, this is definitely the go-to pattern.

Lisette Passport Dress, front detail

I again had the help of my awesome friend and coworker, Dolin, with the fitting on this. It would never have turned out so fabulously without her help!

Here’s the rundown of alterations I had to do:

1. Shortened the waist (as usual).
2. Swayback adjustment to the back bodice (pretty much as usual as well).
3. Adjustments to the armholes in the front and back to keep them from gaping.
4. Took a touch out of the center back.
5. Moved the darts in the front a bit. So, this pattern has only a single set of dart lines for the front no matter what size you are cutting. This pattern seemed to run really small, so I was making a fairly big size, and the darts were way too far in. But these aren’t like normal darts, and the pattern piece is a VERY weird shape, so moving these was kind of fudge-y.
6. I did not sew the darts all the way up. In fact, with every muslin I did I sewed them up less and less. I just preferred this look to the all the way sewn up look.
7. The pattern had front and back facings, but they only went about half-way down the armholes and it called for finishing the armholes with bias tape. Yuck. Did not like that suggestion, so I redrew the facings to do all-in-one facings. SOOOO much more finished looking. Love this treatment. (If you are interested in this method, they’ve just done a detailed post about it over at Colette for a sew-along they are doing.) Because of that, I had to move the top of the zipper (which is on the left side) down an inch or two to keep it away from the facings.

Is that everything? I think so.

Lisette Passport Dress

I think this is a lovely pattern overall, and love that the designer paid enough attention to line up the darts in the back bodice with the pleats in the back skirt. A very professional touch to the design.

Lisette Passport Dress, back detail

I’m thinking in the spring I will do a two-fabric version of this dress using the tiny MoMo Wonderland print for the skirt and the blue shirting from Hanoi for the top. It would be so cute!

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7 comments to Lisette Passport Dress

  • Anne

    Nice job…..like you said, a muslin is the way to go!!!

  • This dress looks perfect on you! I absolutely love the colors and the shape. Couldn’t be more perfectly custom-made!

  • You have the sewing patience of a saint! I never muslim first and should because I always have to take in, shorten, etc and become so frustrated. You may just motivate me yet!

    The dress looks great on you. 🙂

  • Laura

    The dress fits you perfectly! You are the first person I have seen who I think looks good in this dress. I think it’s because of the way you did the darts – it looks much better than sewing them all the way up. When I make mine I’m going to do the same thing.

  • Lou

    Hiya!

    Looks great!

    I’m just doing up a muslin for the portfolio dress and am encountering a lot of armhole gape … i’m curious – how did you fix it without adding darts?

  • wanda crenshaw

    I think the dress looks wonderful on you but can it be adjusted for more of a full figure woman, also i am sorta new to sewing what is the muslim for do you make a practice dress from this to make sure you have the cut and seams and darts is the correct place.

  • wanda crenshaw

    i love the dress on you but do you have any sugestions on how to make it larger for more of a full figure woman, i am also somewhat new to sewing i am am wondering what the muslim is used for.

    Thank You

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